
I'm super excited to announce that I'm co-hosting the Spring 2017 Sew-Along with Meg Carter of the McCall's Pattern Company! I must admit I didn't really fall in love with this pattern right off the bat. After seeing
this video that McCall's did on Facebook, though, I was sold. (Click the link, scroll down and click on "Show More", and it will come up for December 8.)
The full schedule is as follows:
Week of 3/3: Announce sew-along
Week of 3/10: Style inspiration; suitable fabrics
Week of 3/17: Making a muslin to assess fit
Week of 3/24: Pockets (steps 1-13)
Week of 3/31: Seams and zipper (steps 14-24)
Week of 4/7: Waistband and overalls bib (steps 29-61)
Week of 4/14: Finishing (steps 62-66)
Week of 4/21: Big reveal
Meg is making the high waisted pants view with cropped flares and I am making the overall pants view with tapered legs. I think they will be perfect for spring and for my relaxed mom-on-the-go lifestyle.
Read the full announcement on the McCall's Blog
here and please join us for this fun adventure!
For the month of January, the members of the Mood Sewing Network were given the opportunity to work with an African Wax Print, also know as Ankara fabric. I've never looked too closely at these fabrics. They come in such big quantities, and I've not needed 6 yards of anything for a garment, so I skipped right by them. When asked, though, I thought - why not? It might be fun to work with a new-to-me fabric. I chose the Gold and Dark Navy Waxed Cotton with Gold Metallic Foil, the one with the foil leaves. There is also the same colorway with peace signs in foil instead, if that is more your style. I did a ton of searching through google images and even created a board on my Pinterest account of garments made in this type of fabric. What I really wanted was a jacket and fitted pants combo, but I wasn't sure where I'd wear it, so decided on a maxi dress instead. I got out all my fabric hog patterns to choose from, in order to use as much of the yardage as possible.
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I have a love/hate relationship with scuba knit. On the one hand it's a really interesting fabric and the weight and slight insulation properties make it perfect for Texas winters. On the other hand it does not like to stay pressed and I like a crisp seam. Most of the time I stay away from buying it because of its challenges but this fabric was so unique that I had to have it.
The fabric is an embossed scuba knit and was purchased from Mood fabrics. It was sold out long ago so I can't link you to it. I actually made a
pair of pants from the same fabric in March of 2015, but those had the annoying habit of not staying at my waist and were soon after donated. I loved the fabric, though, so I ordered another cut of it and vowed to make a dress of some sort. Inspiration struck when the new McCall's spring pattern were released in early January and I fell in love with the high neck version of
7539.
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The color blocking trend is alive and well. In fact, I have a whole
Pinterest board dedicated to it. To me, color blocking is using two or more of the same type and weight of fabrics in the same garment. Not to be confused with mixed materials, which is two or more different types of materials used in the same garment. (Of which I also have a
Pinterest board for.) This silhouette - cropped top over midi skirt - seams to be a current favorite, and is a look I wanted to try out.
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I don't do posts that showcase pattern releases very much anymore but I just had to this time around because McCall's hit it out of the park for me. There are SO MANY DESIGNS that I like. I need new patterns like I need a hole in my head so I try to only buy a choice few from each collection. This time I've paired in down to 8. And that's using some restraint, people.
This first one is
McCall's 7537. I adore the shape of this and the use of three different prints. I may make it shorter... This view isn't shown on a body so I'm not sure where the hemline falls.
McCall's 7534 looks like a super cute day dress to throw on and go. I'm really loving these types of dresses lately - unfitted but still with some shape. The neckline is pretty too, and that wrap detail goes all the way to the side seam.
Okay, so this silhouette doesn't scream my name. Those flare sleeves aren't comfortable to me. They get in the way of my day-to-day and I like a sleeve that stays put. However, I'll be buying this pattern just to have the neckline. How cute is that lacing with a contrasting lace underneath?! I'm all about these kinds of details. This is
7532 BTW.
This is
McCall's 7539, of which one of the fabrics listed scuba knit. I have several cuts of this type of fabric in my stash and haven't been able to come up with a pattern I love to pair them with. Also, high necklines make the bust look bigger and I'm always trying to even out my proportions.
I think
McCall's 7541 is adorable for spring. Some cape-inspired clothing is difficult for me to pull off. I need my arms free to carry children and most capes just won't work for that. But this top looks like there'd be plenty of movement and mobility. It's simple with some interest.
This is
McCall's 7545. What I like on this design is the mixing of two fabric together and the front tie made from tassels. I'd probably need to run a strip of elastic along the bottom of the sleeve. Although these don't look that wide so maybe I'd be able to pull it off.
This top looks uber trendy and of-the-moment. I'd pinned one that somebody made from the Hotpatterns pattern and was thinking about buying it, but now I think I'll get
McCall's 7543 instead.
I remember wearing overalls in college in the 90's so this pattern really wouldn't have done much for me BUT, I really loved some of the inspiration photos on the video McCall's did for it. I'm still on the fence. I do love the shape - especially the view with the tapered legs - and the fact that it has a waistband. This is
McCall's 7547.
Those are my picks! There are a number more that I'd like to have but I'm seriously running out of room for patterns. I think it may be time for a stash-busting session. What did you find from this release that you just have to have?
I am currently on the hunt for thicker-weight fabrics with draping properties to make winter dresses out of. This Marc Jacobs border print wool-rayon woven from Mood Fabrics caught my eye because I know rayon fabrics to have a great amount of drape and combined with wool I thought it would be perfect for winter. Also border print fabrics are fun to work with. I used Butterick 6409 for the pattern and made a few minor tweaks.
There are lots of ways to use this fabric creatively because it has a thick border on one side and a thinner one on the other. It also has areas of plain black along the selvages. I used the top half of the thick border for the bottom of my dress and the very bottom of the thick border for the sleeve cuffs. With the smaller border I made a belt.
This stuff sewed and pressed like a dream. It really is the perfect weight for winter, especially if you want to forgo a lining. If Mood had other patterns or colors I would snap them up in a heartbeat. The color is kind of a dusty black and can look like a midnight navy in certain lighting.
I cut a size small for this dress and I'm typically a 12 in big 4 woven patterns. The fit is perfect - not too much fabric through the bust with a bit of ease in the shoulders. I also really like the sleeves. Sometimes these types of sleeves have too much fabric in them but these have just the right amount. I left off the button and lapping cuff. That's just extra work when the cuffs fit easily over my hands.
This design relies on a drawstring for its shaping through the body but I find those to be kind of a pain and take too much re-adjusting throughout the day. Instead I used the casing pattern piece and made an elastic waist.
Dressform pictures:
I planned to wear a belt with it but I tried on every belt in my closet and didn't like any of them. I then thought I might add the tie back in to the front but I never need bulky stuff going on around my middle. Somewhere along the line the idea to make a fabric belt popped into my mind and I LOVE how it turned out. Now I want to make fabric belts for everything.
I used french seams throughout because they're pretty and there weren't that many construction joints anyway. The hem I did by hand as I usually do. The stitches for that completely sunk into the fabric so I decided to secure the neck facing by hand instead of top-stitching it down.
I love to wear these types of dresses in my day-to-day life and am thrilled with this new addition to my closet. When it gets a little cooler I'll pair it with tights and flats and be perfectly warm.
Note: The fabric used in this post was purchased with my Mood Fabrics monthly allowance, as part of my participation in the
Mood Sewing Network.
I've just finished a classy wool dress for fall/winter that I'm in love with! The idea for this garment has been floating around my brain for years and I'm just so pleased to see it turn out exactly how I imagined.
I knew I wanted to play around with lace motifs and needed a lace that I could cut into that wouldn't fray. The one I used is from Mood fabrics and is all sold out but
here is a black 3D guipure lace that's similar. The white is an ivory wool twill also from Mood fabrics and
also all sold out. (Sorry!) Mood as lots of other wool twills available. Their
anemone red is a particularly beautiful color that would go great with black lace.
The pattern I used is
Vogue 9183. It's a simple shift dress that's fitted through the bust and skims over the waist and hips. I was intrigued by the neckline of this design and the absence of side seams. I did not make a muslin first as I figured it wouldn't need much fitting past the bust. I cut a size 12 through the bust and waist, tapering out to a 14 through the hips. Thankfully it fit without needing any adjustments.

To make this dress I sewed the ivory wool body pieces together first and put in the zipper. Then I put the dress on my dress form and figured out how I wanted the front lace piece to lay. When it was completely pinned on I took it off the dress form and slowly stitched the lace on by hand with millions of tiny stitches. I went all around the perimeter of the lace and did some stitching in the middle as well. When that was finally done I put it back on my dress form and repeated the process for the second lace piece. Then I had to figure out the lining because this patten is unlined. Usually putting in a lining just involves using the provided bodice pieces but since this dress has a neck facing that's folded over and incorporated into the design, the lining was no picnic.
Dressform pictures:
Here's a closeup of the neckline. I think it looks kind of 60s mod.
I used an
antique white china silk for the lining.
The sleeve head seams were covered in bias tape for a clean finish.
This dress took forever to complete! I actually thought I'd finished it a few weeks ago and posted it to the
Mood Sewing Network for October. However, the more I looked at those pictures the more I felt like something was off. Every once in awhile I'll change my mind about an aspect of my sewing after I see it photographed, and for this dress it was the sleeve length. Perhaps elbow-length sleeves just aren't flattering on my body or maybe something was off with the proportions. I'm not sure. I cut the sleeves off to the shorter length and trimmed a bit of the sleeve head along the way. I like this sleeve length much better. I'm still not completely satisfied with how the sleeves look from the back of the dress but I am
moving on. And trying to not be obsessive. That's hard for a perfectionist.
Note: All fabrics used in this garment were purchased with my Mood Fabrics monthly allowance, as part of my participation in the
Mood Sewing Network.
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I ordered 1.5 yards of this gorgeous Carolina Herrera brocade from Mood fabrics a year or so ago without having any plans for what it would become. It's so beautifully vibrant in color, and the concentrations of turquoise over the black reminded me of brushstrokes. It sold out quickly, however, but was priced at $35/yard.
I had enough fabric for a sheath dress but thought that might be a little too formal for my lifestyle, so went with a skirt instead. The pattern is
Vogue 9061, a relatively simple fit-and-flare style with inverted pleats and a side zipper. Surprisingly, this pattern is now out of print. (Wow, that was fast! It feels like I
just purchased it.) I was planning to make the shorter length but had some left over fabric along the selvages that I had a lightbulb moment over what to do with. It became a midi-skirt instead, with the bottom hem band cut on the cross grain.
Usually with this quality of fabric I make sure to sew up a muslin to test the fit. However, the inverted pleats are the only things forming the waistline, and those are easy enough to adjust. I cut a straight size 12 but did need to let all the pleats out by 1/8".
I like midi-skirts to hit my legs right where the calf starts to curve in towards the knee, which on my body is 27". This pattern is drafted to be 30" long, so I trimmed 1 5/8" off the bottom of the skirt body and 1 3/8" off the hem band.
Dress form pictures:
This pattern does not include a lining. Those aren't difficult to add by any means, but I had to think about what order I needed to sew my seams and how I would deal with inverted pleats on both my outer fabric and my lining. I ended up sewing the side seams and hem band of the brocade first, then hemming it and installing the side zipper. Then I sewed the side seams of the lining together and sewed it invisibly by hand to the zipper opening. I then did the pleating along the top by treating the brocade and the lining as a single layer. When they were pressed open I stitched in the ditch on the outside to secure the pleats from moving around.
The inside waist band is interfaced and slip-stitched to the lining for a smooth finish. It holds the skirt securely to the waist, much like a waist stay does, which is needed with this weight of garment.
The only other thing of note is that I've started stitching the hems of my linings to the outer fabric with an ease pleat, like I do on any lined jacket. I have hemmed those two elements separately for all of my sewing career, but inevitably some threads come unraveled inside the skirt and hang down, needing to be clipped from time to time. This method encases all raw edges and I love it. There is a bit more hand sewing involved to slip-stitch it on, which I really enjoy. I'm weird like that.
I think this will make a great holiday party look as I've styled it here or with boots and a cropped sweater for church. It's definitely a dressy garment. This was a super fun thing to stitch up and all my fabrics behaved themselves nicely. I'll definitely be using this pattern again. (Still can't believe it's OOP already!)
Note: The brocade from this post was purchased with my Mood Fabrics monthly allowance, as part of my participation in the
Mood Sewing Network.
Finding wool clothing in south Texas is just about impossible. Of course our winters are pretty mild and don't last half the year, but it does get cold here. Well, cold to me anyway. If I want wool clothing I have to make it myself, which I am perfectly okay with as it's always such a well behaved fabric. I am really into textures lately, so when I spotted this striped novelty wool-acrylic blend at Moodfabrics.com, I quickly bought 1.5 yards without anything in mind.
I decided to use
Vogue 9154 and make the knee length version of the skirt. I really like the way the stripes come together in chevrons at CF and CB, and horizontally on the sides. The yoke has interesting seam lines as well, although those can not be easily seen with this fabric. I'm definitely making one of the longer views in the near future in a solid color to show them off better. Perhaps I'll add some topstitching as well.

This fabric might look striped from a distance but it's actually rows of yarn secured to an olive green backing. It's a fun texture that doesn't add much bulk. I'm really not sure how much acrylic content this fabric has. I was about to sweat to death while taking these pictures, so rest assured it is really warm. This wool pressed really well but it is somewhat thick to sew with. I had to wrangle it under my machine foot, but once in place it fed through easily. I sewed my seams using bright blue thread so that I could see it easily if I needed to rip it out. I also stitched all the seams with a 4mm stitch length.
I cut a straight size 12 and took a 1.5" hem instead of the 5/8" hem in the pattern directions. I like shorter skirts for winter when they'll likely be worn with tights. On my body, knee length skirts paired with tights make me look like I'm wearing my grandma's clothes. My
maroon top was made this past January and is also wool. Can you see the perspiration forming on my forehead? Lol.
I have found that skirts without waistbands tend to slip around when worn over tights, so I wanted something on the inside that had a little gripping power. I chose a cobalt blue tricot lining from my stash for the inside facing. In order to give the waist some stability and prevent it from stretching out, I added clear elastic to the seamline. Early on I realized I was not going to be able to finish the seams with my typical overlocking stitch, so I cut strips of the tricot and did a Hong Kong finish instead. I also finished off the bottom hem the same way.
Although my camera is making this blue appear much brighter then it is in person, I quite like the pop of color on the inside. I'm also going to explore making more unlined sweater knits now that I know how to neatly finish off the edges.
Note: This fabric was purchased with my Mood Fabrics monthly allowance, as part of my participation in the
Mood Sewing Network.