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Hanhart 415 ES Pure Watch Review 24 Mar 2:49 PM (9 days ago)

Hanhart 415 ES Pure

Retro two-eye chronographs are where it’s at these days, at least for quite a few brands, and Hanhart dipped into the past again and reissued the Hanhart 415 ES. Originally launched in the mid-1960s, this two-eye chrono was the first to feature a bi-directional bezel instead of their iconic fluted bezel. This new one is all upgraded with modern materials and there are two versions to choose the Hanhart 415 ES Pure that I have for review and the Iconic version with gilt hands and the old radium-style lume for that extra vintage effect. It’s equipped with the Sellita SW510M, a domed sapphire, a ceramic bezel insert, and retails for $2680 US. 

Specifications

39mm Stainless Steel Case

13.5mm thick

46mm Lug to Lug

20mm Lug Width

86.5 grams 

Sellita SW510M movement

58 Hour power reserve

Shock-protected with Hanhart movement damping as additional shock protection

Domed Sapphire Crystal 

100m Water Resistant

Calf Leather Strap 

Current Price $2680 (Watchbuys)

Watchbuys-https://www.watchbuys.com/store/pc/Hanhart-415-ES-Pure-Chronograph-39-mm-4p8027.htm

Hanahart Website-https://www.hanhart.com/produkt/415-es-pure-39-mm/

This is far from the first time Hanhart has dipped into their history for a new model, matter of fact they have done it quite a few times, and 2 years ago they did it with the 417 ES. While there are a few different versions (and sizes) of that model, I reviewed the 42mm with a fairly new Hnahrt steel bracelet. It’s a gorgeous piece, that uses the same Sellita manual movement as this 417, and it’s been a very popular model for the German watchmaker.

The Hanhart 415 ES Pure takes from the 60s whereas the 417 ES was modeled after a Hanhart from the 50s. The 415 was the first chronograph for the German Airforce and the 417 is the first model to feature a bi-directional timing bezel, which was/is quite a different look for Hanhart, as well as adding extra function to this two-eye chrono.

This Hanhart 415 ES Pure chronograph only comes in one size at the movement, 39mm, unlike the 417 which is available in both 39mm and 42mm. This one stays true to the original in size as well as looks. Hanhart created an almost replica of the original with this new model, with only a few differences. The dial is mostly unchanged except for the right subdial now being a 30-minute counter, and a slight change in hand design, this is a very faithful reissue.

The numbers, triangle or cone indices, the tachymeter, and that red 100th scale are all still here. What does that red hundredth scale do? I have no idea, but it’s there if you know what it is and need it. Your running seconds are on the 9 o’clock subdial, and of course, running the chronograph is as easy as a press on the top pusher. Hit it again to stop and press the 4 o’clock pusher to reset. Pretty typical for a chronograph. They even brought over the curved minute and second hand, so you don’t have that parallax effect with the beautiful domed sapphire crystal.

What else did they bring from the vintage reference?  The winged logo. This logo hasn’t been used in almost 40 years, but it makes its return on the Hanhart 415 ES pure. It’s of course present on the dial, but you can see it on the case back, as well as the winged H on the large crown.

Now is as good a time as any to discuss that crown, as this watch is water resistant to 100m, yet has a push/pull crown. Watch Report readers will know I have a hang-up about push/pull crowns, not just because of water resistance, but I just prefer that extra security of a screw-down crown and not having to worry about the crown accidentally catching and popping out. In fairness, I have not had one issue while wearing this piece, and I’ve seen that a reviewer tested this watch in the ocean, and it held up without issue. I won’t be taking it in the ocean any time soon, but it’s good to know I don’t have to worry about the dial fogging up if I get caught in a downpour.

While 13.5mm might sound pretty thick for a vintage-style chronograph sized at 39mm, I think it’s quite thin. I’ve seen vintage references much thicker, and some of that thickness is taken up by that lovely box sapphire crystal. The mid-case is not that thick, and when on the wrist, this doesn’t feel thick at all. The case is mostly satin brushed with a polished change, bezel edge and crown, and pushers. It’s a nice mix of finishes and gives it a nice modern aesthetic.

Speaking of the wrist, the Hanhart 415 ES is 39mm, and I can’t lie, I would prefer the 42mm size like the 417 ES I reviewed. It doesn’t exactly look out of place or too small on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist, but I would like to see more of my wrist covered. It’s just a personal preference, and I know all the rage is vintage-sized 38 and 39-mm pieces, I would like it even at 40 or 41mm.

That said, it does wear well on my wrist, and the case back is very comfortable, as is that amazing Alcantara-backed calf leather strap. I have the black one, but it’s also available in both a light and dark brown, and it’s just a wonderful strap. The buckle could use an upgrade for sure, especially with a watch at this price, but this is one comfortable leather strap. Another good thing about the strap is that this is medium size, so if you have a large wrist, don’t fret, there is a larger strap to suit you.

Don’t worry, I didn’t forget about the bezel and its functionality, and while a bi-directional bezel or two-eye chronograph is not uncommon these days, both of them together on a Hanhart in 1964 was a big deal. I’m not sure what the bezel insert was back then, probably aluminum or just coated steel, but the reissue uses ceramic, and it is matte ceramic, a favorite of mine. It matches the matte dial, and just looks fantastic, and won’t show any fingerprints either.

It clicks as smoothly as most b-directional bezels, which is to say great, but these pilot-style timing bezels are less about that smooth ratching feel that we desk divers like to fiddle with, and more about being precise and easily changed to time something. In combination with the chronograph and the 58-hour power reserve from the SW510M, this is a tool watch with the obvious vintage vibe.

This one isn’t as in-your-face vintage though as the Iconic model. The ES Iconinc was released first and while many love that look, I love this white hand Pure version. This may sound like an odd take too, but the lume, despite being X2 SuperLumiNova, isn’t the best due to the small indices and hands, but with the white hands, I bet its probably a little easier to see in the dark.

At $2680,  (400 more than the ES 415 I reviewed) I initially wondered why the price is what I considered on the high side. Now I freely admit, that while this is a wonderful watch, it’s not exactly a watch I fell deeply in love with. I’m sure brands hate to hear that, but let’s be honest, how fake would it be for me to gush over every single watch I reviewed?

The reality is, that this is a solid, well-built, and quite attractive piece from Hanhart, and I expected no less from them. They have become one of the watch brands I look forward to reviewing most over the last decade and it is simply because they manufacture hit after hit. This one just didn’t hit me. That price though? It’s more than in line with so many others on the market or ones coming soon, and for those out there who are looking for a two-eye vintage chrono., this one should at least make your list. Retro is here to stay, and that’s a good thing, especially when brands are bringing back watches from their past like this Hanhart 415 ES Pure.

Hanhart

Hands-On with the Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A 3 Mar 2:45 PM (last month)

Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A

The first 1000m diver was manufactured by Ollech & Wajs and Jenny in 1964. 60 years later in 2024, OW recreated this legendary dive watch, the Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A. The original was a huge feat at the time, two small companies creating a 1000m diver when the big boys were working on 600m divers. Equipped with an ETA 2452 manual wind movement, an acrylic crystal, and a monoblock stainless case, the Caribbean 1000 was ahead of its time. 60 years later it has a screw-down crown and case back, a Soprod Newton PO92 automatic movement, that can be upgraded to a COSC version, and a double domed sapphire crystal. The one I have comes with a cadmium yellow RAF style strap and retails for just over $2000.

Specifications

• 39.5mm Stainless Steel Case

• 20mm Lug Width

• 45.7mm Lug to Lug

• 15.8mm Thick

• 98.7 grams 

• Screw Down Crown

• Screw Down Case Back

• Domed Sapphire Crystal

• 1000m Water Resistance 

• Soprod Newton Precision P092 Movement

• Cadmium Yellow RAF Strap

Current Price $2,070.51 USD

https://ow-watch.com/collections/ollech-wajs-watches/products/ow-c-1000-a

The original, shown below, was quite the achievement in 1964. To quote OW-

It was worn by commercial and military divers and tested by ocean explorers in the Red Sea, the North Atlantic and under the frozen Arctic ice pack.

These days, many watches are capable of depths of 1000 meters, and many have surpassed this as well. Something I did find interesting was another quote from OW, about the owners of the Caribbean 1000 and the depths it had seen-

Over 50 years on, many of those original watches are still fully serviceable and ocean ready. One or two may well be on the wrists of divers somewhere right now. However, given the majority of scuba divers never go below 40m (131ft) and even the most experienced saturation divers never exceed 300m (984ft), few if any of those ‘Caribbean 1000s’ have ever been within 700m of their limit.

Original OW Caribbean 1000m

The 1964 version was quite an attractive watch and even these days, as vintage is still all the rage, it is an attractive watch. This is why OW didn’t want to change too much in recreating this legendary model. The case is still very much round, and those extremely pointed lugs, vampire lugs as they were called by owners and fans of the original are here, but this is no longer a monoblock case, rather it has a screw down crown and screw down case back, which is pretty much the standard for modern production watches.

The large crown is signed, and if you opt for the COSC version, it will have a COSC destination on the crown, the crystal is still domed, but instead of arctallc, it’s sapphire of course, a very large doubled domed sapphire crystal. Even the bezel insert is pretty faithful to the original.

The dial of the Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A is a combination of old and new. The handset is mostly unchanged, but OW did opt for an arrow tipped second hand instead of a diamond. The dial layout is pretty similar as well, though the date is now located at the 6 o’clock position, it of course has the modern OW logo, and perhaps the biggest change is the indices. These triangle (applied) and rectangle (printed) indices are part of the modern OW lineup, quite attractive and easy to read. I like what they did here, they kept the essence of the original, while still making it look like a current OW model.

The crystal is sapphire as expected, these days I think it’s odd when a manufacturer uses acrylic. Yes, it would be true to the original, but there is a reason sapphire is used on modern watches. That said, this really is a big domed sapphire, and while it creates a lovely profile, it can almost act like a mirror at times, reflecting almost everything, including studio lights. Yes, it was a little tiresome photographing this piece at times, but when on the wrist, I never found it hard to read the time.

The case of the Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A is split up into a few parts, and while this is a thick watch at 15.8mm, I don’t find it to look or wear as such. The mid case is rather thin, then you can see where it bulges out underneath that to the case back, and then there is the sawtooth-like bezel and domed sapphire. If this was more all one solid chunk of metal, at almost 16mm thick, it would look like a hockey puck, instead, I find it rather refined.

Every surface of this watch is satin brushed and that mid case, while not having much curve to it, is rather short, at only 45.7mm. The case width is 39.5mm, only .5mm larger than its vintage predecessor, though that large crown does make this watch look and feel like a 40 or even  41mm watch. I also feel this watch is much more balanced with the length and width of the case, compared to the modern incarnation of the Caribbean diver, the C-1000.

 I’ve seen a few comments about the bezel, more specifically the bezel insert, but I honestly love both. The bezel itself is solid steel, coin or sawtooth edge, and I love how it tapers towards down into the teeth. It is 120 clicks, unidirectional, very solid and very precise.

The insert is again, pretty faithful to the original, with a slight tweak to add a 20 minute dive scale with the 12 hour feature. The dive scale and the arrows have a light orange color, which is pretty close to the cadmium yellow RAF strap. The insert glass is mineral though, which I do find a little strange for a watch built in 2024 with a price of $2000. The bezel insert isn’t very wide though, and the insert is pretty well, and along with that domed sapphire taking the brunt of the knocks, it should stay pretty scratch free.

Inside the Ollech & Wajs C1000-A, is the Soprod Newton P092. I have covered this movement in other OW watches and for the most part, I don’t recall ever having an issue with a Soprod movement at all. I know Ollech works closely with Soprod for these movements and they are regulated and tested whether they are COSC or not. This one’s accuracy has been averaging -4 seconds over a week, which isn’t too shabby. That all said, if you want to go COSC, it will cost you another $350. For me, it’s not worth it, but if you need that accuracy, it may be worth it to you.

This cadmium yellow RAF strap is lovely, and the color is a new favorite of mine. It’s a light faded gold color, and it just suits the retro vibe of this Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A so well. As many are probably aware, I don’t really wear nylon straps like this, or nato or Zulu straps, and that is true, but I like how this is a single pass strap, and that it buckles like a two piece strap, and I love these chunky, square OW buckles as well.

But this is a $2000 watch, $2340 if you upgrade to the COSC movement. At these prices, I would like to see at least a tropic rubber strap included with the RAF strap. The only bracelet available is again an extra charge, another $160, for the OW mesh bracelet, not a beads of rice bracelet that this reviewer hoped it would be.

I do love how this anniversary model wears on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist though. I have grown fond of this strap, more than I probably should, and honestly I never thought I would be so enamored with a nylon strap. Because it is one piece, and the way it buckles, even with this being kind of a fat watch, it balances well on my wrist and I don’t find it to be top heavy at all. I only have 2 holes left and I just made it into that stitched in large keeper, so again for those guys out there who prefer a smaller or vintage style watch, you’ll need to find a replacement strap.

Another thing I was happy to see was that all the indices are lumed on the Ollech & Wajs C-100 A. If you are not familiar with OW watches, you may find that to be an odd statement, as why would only some of the indices be lumed. That’s a good question that I can’t answer, but that’s how quite a few of the models I have reviewed were. Here, everything is lumed up, including the second hand triangle and that 20 min dive scale. Its not the brightest lume, and its not the longest lasting either, but its more than suffice, but if you are a lume junkie, if you need the brightest, most intense lume on a watch, this one still isn’t it.

Sometimes as a reviewer, you get to the summary, and you struggle with how you want to end the article. This one is easy. This is my favorite Ollech & Wajs I have reviewed to date, bar none. I generally like the look of the entire OW lineup, but this one does check all of the boxes. It’s very retro, it’s a recreation of a watch that marked a milestone in dive watches, and I really wouldn’t change all that much about it. Yes, I would like a flatter or even a top hat ctsytal, but that’s purely subjective, and the lume could be stronger, and hopefully they can pair it up with a BOR bracelet at some point, but as it is, it is absolutely my favorite OW and probably the best OW since they change of haneds in 2017.

What do you think though? Let me know in the comments. You can see more of this Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A in the video above or at the OW website.

Hands-On with the Titoni Airmaster Pilot 24 Feb 6:28 PM (last month)

Titoni Airmaster Pilot

Titoni has released a new model, the Ttioni Airmaster Pilot. Well, I call it pilot, but technically it has a long model number no one will remember-73906 T-ST-723. I call it the pilot and it is the quintessential pilot watch in my opinion, the classic look of a pilot watch, much like the Big Pilot from IWC, but this one has a vintage aesthic about it, and unlike a lot of pilot watches, this one is sized at 43mm, which I feel is a great size. Its also COSC certified, has a sandwich dial, comes in 2 colors, and a really beautiful case back.

Specifications

• 43mm Grade 5 Titanium Case
• 12.2mm Thick
• 22mm Lug Width
• 50mm Lug Width
• 5.2mm Crown 
• 85.8 Grams 
• Sapphire Crystal
• COSC Sellita SW200-1 Movement
• 100m Water Resistant
• Brown Leather Strap

Price $2300 

https://www.titoni.ch/en/collection/gents-watches/airmaster/detail/us/73906-t-st-723.html

This new Titoni Airmaster Pilot is a lovely piece, a piece I have become fond of the more I wore it, photographed it, etc. I say that as there are two things that I want to see changed, but there is a charm about this watch that I just can’t shake. On paper, this is a titanium watch with a black sandwich dial, vintage-colored lume, and a brown leather strap. There are countless watches available that would match that same description, yet this watch keeps jumping out at me more and more.

Is it the refinement and simplicity? Is it the matte dial? Is it the overall finishing? Is it all of those things combined? The answer is yes. The case isn’t anything different as far as design and style, but as usual, with Tiitoni, it is well machined and finished, with beautiful brushed surfaces with a polish chamfer on the top of the case that runs down into the very curved lugs, and a small polished section under the bezel area.

***I need to put in a big edit here. Not only is the case finishing beautiful, but this is an all brushed and polished chamfered grade 5 titanium watch. I incorrectly stated in the video and the original version of this review, that it was stainless steel, as I missed that it was titanium, and I saw it stated elsewhere that it was stainless steel.

Surprisingly, at the very tip of the lugs, on the underside, they are a little sharp to the touch, something I was not expecting. You never feel this on the wrist, and it may be something most people will never notice, but I feel it is worth pointing out.

And if I am pointing out things that surprised me,  I might as well point out the other, and that is that the crown does not screw down. Again, to some, this may be a complete non-issue, but I prefer the extra security of a screw-down crown, especially for a watch that would be a daily driver.

Fortunately, the Titioni Airmaster Pilot does have 100m of water resistance, and in my time with it, I have not encountered any issues, it’s just something I prefer. All that said, I adore this crown. It is not your typical pumpkin or diamond-style crown, it is kind of a mash of both, and not only is it gorgeous with the machining and the plum blossom logo, but it is very easy to grip. This is a one-position crown as well, as this is a no-date dial and a no-date movement.

The dial of this Titoni Airmaster Pilot is available in two colors currently, this matte black dial and what Titoni calls a silver dial. On the website, the silver dial looks more like a light cream, but I have seen pics on their social media where it does look silver. Both are sandwich dials, both have large hands, and what I consider a restrained dial for Titoni. I know some are probably looking at the large text or the cursive Airmaster text, but I think this watch and design, it’s well balanced, compared to some of their other models like the Seascoper, where many have complained about the size and amount of dial text.

Both versions use these large sword-style hands. I say sword style as they do not come to a point, rather they square off at the tip, and these hands are ones used on a few other Aimraster models. The hands are steel and have a noticeable brushed finish, including on the thin stick second hand, which some have remarked should have been lumed instead of just plain brushed steel.

The stencil sandwich marker cutouts are nice and clean, and easy to read, and while I am not always a fan of this old radium lume paint color, I do have to say, that is another thing that has grown on me. It just works on this dial, and this style of watch, and does give it that vintage charm.

As you can see on the dial and case back, this is a chronometer, meaning the movement is COSC-certified. This Titoni Airmaster Pilot is an SW200-1, which is a widely used movement. Like a lot of Swiss movements, there are levels or grades, so no, this is not the same SW200 you find in a $600 microbrand, but Titioni does have their manucature movement, the T10, which would have been nice to see in this $2300 watch.

The titanium case back is not showing off that COSC SW200-1 either, we have a beautifully engraved case back with a depiction of a male pilot from the 40s. I am not sure if this artwork is meant to depict or have a likeness to someone in history, but either way, if you are a fan of solid casebacks with some great artwork, this is a great example.

Sizing for pilot watches has been all over the spectrum through the years but generally, pilot watches have gone from large (37.5mm in 1936) to 55mm for Nav B-UHR watches, and the IWC Big Pilot standard size is 46mm. So this Titoni Airmaster Pilot is again in the middle. It’s not small, but not oversized, and while 43mm is considered large to some watch enthusiasts these days, I think it looks and wears fantastically on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist. It’s just the right size for this style of watch, as a watch to be worn casually and not while piloting a fighter jet in a war. The crown doesn’t dig into the back of my hand or wrist, and I just like how it feels on the wrist throughout the day.

Unfortunately, there is one issue, and that comes from the brown leather strap. This is a beautiful dark caramel brown leather strap, with minimal stitching, wax-burnished edges, and a very nice signed solid titanium buckle. It also has somewhat unique buckle holes as they look like little windows, perfect little squares that just really caught my eye.

What it doesn’t have, is length. This strap measured 110 x 75mm, which I find to be not only short for myself but also for a 43mm watch. It would be nice if they offered it in a longer length as it just barely fits my wrist.

The Lume of the Titoni Airmaster Pilot is pretty solid, though the hands do stay brighter than the lume coming from the dial underneath. While it is all very vibrant after a charge or hit with the sunlight, expect the numerals to dim first. That said, I still found it to be easy to read 5 hours after hitting with a UV light for 30 seconds.

As I stated, I find this Titoni Airmaster Pilot to be a very charming example of a classic pilot watch. The overall finishing is superb, it looks great both on and off the wrist, and with a COSC movement, it keeps excellent time for an automatic watch. I also love how they did the titanium, it looks like stainless steel, but has a slightly different sheen, and the brushing with polished chamfers is expertly done.

I would love to see longer straps and a screw-down crown, the crown being subjective on my part, but other than that, it’s another great example from Titoni. Even at 43mm, I find this to be a great watch for everyday wear, or if it’s a little too casual for your weekly wear, it. great watch for the weekend. It is not exactly cheap but I think the quality is up to par with other watches at this price point as well.

For more info, head over to the Titoni Website.

The Latest Nordic Marine ØSTERSØEN 13 Feb 3:37 PM (last month)

Nordic Marine ØSTERSØEN

The Nordic Marine ØSTERSØEN with the Aventurine dial is one of the latest from the Denmark microbrand. It’s one of 4 new dials, the other 3 being Mother of Pearl, in brown, blue, and aqua green. The ØSTERSØEN was their first model, and the original ones had a patterned wave dial, but these new ones take dress diver to another level with these new dials. Keeping the same case, bracelet, and bezel, as well as movement, this 40mm stainless diver has a great look, and is just about 10.5 thick, so it can be worn for almost any occasion. While it is a dressier piece than a lot of dive watches, it still retains 200m of water resistance as well as a screw-down crown, all for $599.

Specifications

40mm case width

11.9mm case thickness

48mm case length / lug-to-lug

20mm lug width tapers to 16mm at clasp

The bracelet fits up to 8.5-inch wrists

Miyota 90S5 Movement 

316L marine-grade stainless steel case

Water resistant to 200 meters / 660 feet

120-click unidirectional bezel

Brushed stainless steel bezel insert

Screw-down crown

Flat sapphire crystal with inner Super-AR Coating

Superluminova BGW9 

stainless bracelet with quick adjustment clasp 

Price- $599 

https://nordicmarineinstruments.com/collections/ostersoen

Now I keep referring to this as a dress diver, and maybe that is the wrong classification, but even the original versions of the Nordic Marine ØSTERSØEN had the same look as this version, with the stainless bezel insert, and the clean and uncluttered dial, and those faceted hands and indices, this is just not your standard looking dive watch. Other brands have done this look, such as Zelos, currently Belhamel watches, Marin Instruments, and even Glycine just dropped another new model with a stainless bezel insert for that monochromatic look, but this one just seems to be less casual or rugged than all of those, it has an elegance about it if you will.

And yes, the elegance factor is ramped up on these models with the MOP dials or this example I have in hand, the Aventurine. I believe this is the third model with an Aventurine dial I have reviewed, and I chose this over the MOP dials, just because I find it to be a little more subdued, and I also feel, based on the pics I have seen, that this dial allows those hands and applied indices to pop more. Now you may be looking at these pictures thinking, these dials are subdued but keep in mind, these photos were taken with studio lights and done so to highlight the sparkle of the Aventurine, but in regular wearing and a lot of standard lighting, it comes off as more of a black or dark blue dial.

The dial is as best as I can tell the same as the wave dial version, clean, uncluttered, small model name text, and the applied shield logo. While I guess I can nitpick on the small text above the 6 or maybe the much larger Nordic Marine text, I think it all works well together, and with no date, it keeps things very symmetrical and easy to read at a glance. Adding just a pop of color is the dark orange model name text and the tip of the arrow second hand, and the sapphire crystal is flat with an internal AR coating. As. I pointed out earlier, that I concentrated the lighting on the dial to show off that Aventurine, but it is less noticeable in regular lighting.

At first glance, at least from the top down, the Noridc Marine ØSTERSØEN seems to be all brushed steel, even the bezel insert is brushed steel,  which can give off a more tool vibe look, but turn it to the side and you will see the polished chamfered edges under the bezel area and the bottom of the case sides. Even though the case is very thin at 10.5mm, including the bezel and crystal, the way the bezel sits on top of the mid-case and is 1mm larger than the case itself, along with that sandwich of polished chamfers, gives this model just enough pop, just enough dimension, compared to a slab-sided dive watch case.

The lugs are rather straight though, and because of this, the end links do sit a little low, I mean, they fit properly to the case, but it’s just the visual of the straight lugs and the end links curving into the case. More about the bracelet and how it wears shortly, but unlike the Nordic Marine Sovaern, this model is a diver, so there are well-integrated crown guards and a screw-down crown. The crown is large enough at a little over 6mm and easy to use, and don’t worry about a phantom date position as the Miyota 90S5 is a no-date movement.

The bezel action is superbly crisp as well, so much so that it was surprising. The clicks are very precise and there is no back play at all, and maybe it was wrong I was surprised, I just wasn’t expecting such great bezel grip and movement on a $600 watch such as this.

The bracelet is the same as the Sovaern as well, but it’s a nice oyster-style link bracelet, with quick-release pins on the end links, one-piece screw links, and a beautiful clasp with chamfered edges and yes, it has the on-the-fly push-button extension.

The case back is the same as well, flat with the polished edge and that vertical brushed circle, and while it is rather plain, the unadorned and flat case back is very comfortable on the wrist.

Yes, on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist, this 40mm Nordic Marine ØSTERSØEN is a nice size and wears comfortably. I have rather flat wrists, and the lug-to-lug is short, so it fits me well, but some might not like the rather straight lugs. I also prefer this model over the Sovaern, as with the extra 1mm of size, the crown guards, and the dive bezel, it just suits my wrist and I prefer this look as well, even though the Sovaern is a very well-made field style watch.

I do find this watch is missing something though, something so many brands microbrands, and mainstream alike, and that is hard coating. Many watches I review, especially many in this price range have a 1200 vickers hard coating, and while it doesn’t make the case and bracelet scratch-proof, it does prevent those desk diving and door jam scratches. Further, Nordic Marine watches are manufactured by RZE,  and every model they have produced to date has an UltraHex hard coating.

The lume on the Nordic Marine ØSTERSØEN is BGW9 and when fully charged, very bright and has a beautiful hue, but the hands do seem to stay brighter longer than the indices, but you should still be able to see the time in the dark 3-4 hours after a full charge or just from it being exposed to sunlight or a lot of bright light through the day.

I think the Nordic Marine ØSTERSØEN with the Aventurine dial is a nice change from the toolish style dive watches that we are used to and while it’s far from the first brand to use these dials or use a brushed stainless bezel for a cleaner look, everything really works together with this model. The faceted hands and indices, the coin edge bezel, the crown guards, and a comfortable and very adjustable bracelet. it is a very nice watch, especially for $600. I don’t think the lack of a hard coating is a deal breaker, though I do hope they consider it going forward.  I also like it more than the field model, but a lot of that is just personal preference, I like what Nordic Marine has produced thus far and look forward to future models from this young brand.

Second Hour Sattelberg MK2 Review 29 Jan 10:47 AM (2 months ago)

Second Hour Sattelberg

The Second Hour Sattelberg MK2 is a modern take on a field watch, honoring the Sattelberg Campaign of New Guinea in WW2. This second model upgrades the dial with new patterns and textures, adds a 7-link bracelet, and retains all of the goodies from the original such as the Miyota 9015 movement, a 1200 Vickers hard coating, and a screw-down crown. This latest model only comes in 3 colors, blue, black, and a copper dial, and comes in under $600. Sized at 40mm, it is a very versatile field-style watch that can be worn in many environments.

Specifications

• Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel with 1200 Vickers surface hardening – case, bracelet, and clasp
• Case Diameter: 40mm
• Lug to Lug: 47mm
• Thickness: 10.5mm (with crystal)
• Lug Width: 20mm
• Weight: 160 grams (on bracelet) 64.5 grams (strap)
• Crystal: Flat Sapphire crystal with 6 layers of internal AR coating
• Movement: Miyota 9015 Automatic (42 hours power reserve)
• Water Resistance: 100 meters
• 7 link bracelet 
• Optional leather straps 

Price $547 USD 

https://www.secondhour.com.au/shop/p/sattelberg-mk2

Just like dive watches, field watches are plenty in the watch world, and dare I say, they may be number 2 in terms of watches most brands produce, and probably number 2 in popularity as well. That can be argued of course, but it’s my take on it after reviewing watches for the last decade or so. So when designing one, do you go the standard route or do you try and do something a little different? The Second Hour Sattelberg MK2 takes both approaches. It combines a lot of classic style and elements of a standard field watch but gives it a fresh, stylish dial, a dual case finish with a mix of brushed and polished, and a 7-link bracelet. The original Sattelberg was more of your standard field watch, with a cross-hair dial, 24-hour time, and leather strap, so this MK2 has quite a few changes.

The Second Hour Sattelberg MK2 has a 3-piece dial that all works together very well. There is a nice contrast of colors which makes it not only aesthetically pleasing but also easy to read, with large Arabic numerals, that are rasided lume blocks for lack of a better phrase, a white chapter ring, a few places of read, and course that center dial with the sunburst pattern. And while a lot of watches have been going with no-date dials, the Sattelberg does have a date at the 6 o’clock position and I love that they went with the circle cut out and its a color-matched disc, and very easy to read. All in all it’s a clean and modern dial, easy to read at a glance, and less military and more fashion-forward than its predecessor.

Keeping things thin at 10.5mm (only .5mm thicker than the original), the Sattelberg MK2 has a beautifully crafted and finished case. A sandwich of brushed and polished, the machining and polishing looks like it belongs on a watch that costs much more than $550. The lugs have a moderate curve, and they all come together to create a sleek and classic case. The crown is signed with the Second Hour logo and while not a massive crown at 5.5mm, it has a great grip to it, it digs into the fingers to get a good purchase, and I had no issues with my medium/large hands. While many may overlook this, this does have 100m of water resistance and a screw-down crown, something not always seen on a modern feel watch, yet it always should be.

Under the geo-code location engraved case back is the Miyota 9015, the workhorse movement for the microbrands. I don’t touch on this movement a lot, it’s in a lot of watches I review, it’s a basic movement, much improved on the original 8215 models, with a very smooth sweep, and a noticeably loud rotor. It’s a workhorse though because it has proven to be pretty reliable over the past decade, which is why so many brands use it.

This time the Second Hour Sattelberg MK2 comes with a 7-link bracelet as standard, it’s brushed and polished to match the case, has quick-release pins, smooth finishing, and a beautiful clasp, that yes, has a push button on the fly extension to help obtain the perfect fit. It also has the same hard coating as the case, which should keep the bracelet and clasp looking new for longer, although always remember, that nothing is scratch-proof.

I think the bracelet looks great, and you don’t always see field watches with a fancy bracelet, for those that only wear watches on bracelets, it’s great to see them offer it. That said, for an extra $40, you can get a leather strap, either in black, brown, or tan, which is the one I have here. I love the color of this strap, kind of a mustard golden brown color, which will only look better with wear further, the strap is damn nice for the $40 price tag and is very comfortable as well. Like the bracelet, it also has quick-release pins.

As you have probably surmised, I do prefer the Sattleberg on the leather strap. Nothing at all wrong with the bracelet, it’s quite attractive and I love the clasp, but it just doesn’t do it for me on this particular watch. I just love how it looks on the leather strap, and I feel the case looks a little larger on the leather strap, and a little more rugged as well, or maybe more every day, do anything on the strap, if that makes sense. Of course, all is subjective and you may prefer the bracelet, but to me, this is a strap watch. The bracelet uses screw pins for sizing and should be able to easily fit on an 8 1/4 inch (20.96cm) wrist, while the leather strap probably won’t fit on a wrist much larger than mine, which is 7 1/2 inches (19.05cm).

With those applied lume number blocks, I was very excited to see the Second Hour Sattelberg MK2 in the dark, and thankfully I was not disappointed. They are loaded up with BGW9 lume, and they glow intensely, and last for about 4-5 hours in my testing. Some field watches drop the ball when it comes to lume, and while lume is not that important to everybody, I always say, if you are going to lume something up, do it right or not at all and SH did it right.

I stated in the video that I think I prefer the original version of the Second Hour Sattleberg because of the dial layout, it had a more military vibe to it that I just dig, and I stand behind that statement. That dial appeals to me more. That being said, this dial is nicer looking, I love the lume block numbers, and it’s just more versatile as well. With the new dial, the 7-link bracelet, and the optional leather strap, this is a watch that can be your only watch or a do-almost-everything watch. Work, play, in the field, hell you can even get it moderately wet without worry because of the screw-down crown and 100m water resistance. It can easily be worn for a formal event as well, especially on the bracelet, something you can’t say about most field watches. The refreshed look is nice, it has a few upgrades and they still kept it affordable at under $600.

Check out more at the Second Hour website.