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EDGAR--An Indian Summer Address for Casual Eats in the Sentier, B- 25 Aug 2013 | 09:44 pm
There are few things I love more than discovering a French town by visiting its market, and through many years of doing so, I've developed a short list of favorite French markets, many of which a...
THE SUNKEN CHIP--A Good Chippie in Paris, B; LA ROTISSERIE D'EN FACE--Fowling Out in Saint Germain des Pres, C 9 Aug 2013 | 02:25 pm
I have to admit that it took me a longtime to become a fan of fish and chips. The first hurdle was overcoming an aversion born of regular exposure to Gorton's frozen fish sticks (fish fingers in En...
CAFE CONSTANT--An Honest Tourist Restaurant, B-/C+ 27 Jul 2013 | 08:01 pm
Since he left the Hotel de Crillon in 1996, chef Christian Constant has slowly been colonizing the rue Saint Dominique in the 7th arrondissement, a propitious location for a restaurateur because it...
M.O.B.--A French Twist: Healthy Fast Food, C+; 35 OUEST--Smooth Sailing at a Left Bank Fish House, B- 11 Jul 2013 | 06:59 pm
@ Francis Amiand Perhaps one of the most persistent myths about food writers is that we only like to eat at the highest end of the food chain. The truth is that during the course of any given week,.....
LA SCENE, Hotel Prince de Galles--Exquisite Contemporary French Cooking, B+/A- 5 Jul 2013 | 01:43 am
Whispering Maitre d'Hotel, hard-working chefs at La Scene Within minutes of sitting down at La Scène, the new restaurant at the exquisitely renovated Hotel Prince de Galles on the Avenue George V, .....
POSTCARD FROM CATALUNYA--Mare Nostrum, Sitges--Very Good Catalan Seafood Cooking, B+ 28 Jun 2013 | 11:58 am
On the waterfront: Sitges My discovery of Catalan cooking dates to an almost comically unsuccessful stint as an English teacher in Barcelona in the mid-eighties. I had a gap between two jobs in Ne...
PIERRE SANG BOYER--Superb Contemporary French Cooking, A- 18 Jun 2013 | 01:04 pm
The first two times I tried to go to Pierre Sang Boyer's restaurant in the Oberkampf district of the 11th arrondissement, my luck ran dry. Since they don't have a public phone number, we showe...
OLIVIER ARLOT--A Young Star in the Loire (Montbazon) B+/A-; CAFE DE LA PROMENADE (Bourgeuil)--A Superb Country Auberge, B+ 7 Jun 2013 | 11:16 pm
A week recently spent in the Loire Valley, which I hadn't visited for more than a day or two in many years, caused me to fall into love with this magnificent and graciously green patch of France ...
MONSIEUR BLEU--Dining Chic-to-Chic at the Palais de Tokyo, B- 29 May 2013 | 05:23 pm
@ Adrien Durand As a child of suburbia, I love cities with a passion that goes back to my earliest memories of trips into New York City from our safe and pretty but hopelessly dull nest in suburban.....
HUGO DESNOYER Table d'Hotes--A Great Place to Meat, B+/A- 22 May 2013 | 02:18 pm
Often there's no faster route to high spirits than a sudden surge of spontaneity and a good dose of extravagance (deeply considered penuriousness somehow just never seems to work). So on a gloom...