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agitate as necessary 21 Aug 2013 | 02:21 pm
On Sunday we went for lunch on the other side of Rome. With the city seemingly empty of both Romans and tourists and every traffic light on our side, we flew from Testaccio to Piazza Bologna in record...
the rough with the smooth 14 Aug 2013 | 02:38 pm
Testaccio in August: hot, quiet, sleepy and slightly squalid, which I put down to the dust, heat and arbitrary rubbish collection. There is just enough life to reassure – including my preferred bar, m...
it’s the key 6 Aug 2013 | 09:45 pm
The Yale lock which opens the front door of our apartment block has been playing up for weeks. Some days it’s more exasperating than others. This morning being the most exasperating yet. As I wriggled...
on a whim 2 Aug 2013 | 04:23 pm
I’m not sure how best to translate sfizi. For the sake of straightforwardness and my index, I could suggest they are snacks or appetizers; something tasty to fill a gap or begin a meal. Fine, but both...
Blue book 25 Jul 2013 | 02:39 pm
The first thing I made was the slow-cooked lamb shanks. It was 1997 and I was studying in Chalk Farm and living on Haverstock Hill, not quite opposite the Sir Richard Steele Pub, in a flat above a keb...
outside in 17 Jul 2013 | 01:35 am
I have long accepted that in matters of Italian food I will always have a sense of being outside looking in. Outside peering in through a steamed-up kitchen window, rubbing it with my sleeve and then ...
polish and scrub 10 Jul 2013 | 06:53 pm
After two unsuccessful reconnaissance missions, we finally found the marble man. He was in fact – as promised – at the wrong end of Lungotevere Testaccio, only after the Romany camp and tucked behind ...
q.b 3 Jul 2013 | 12:09 pm
I was too confused and cross to appreciate anything. It was Monday at 6 o’clock and I was late and lost, fooled again by the exaggerated curves of the Tevere river, staggering with an oversized child ...
A little discretion 24 Jun 2013 | 12:33 am
During the last two weeks I’ve watched four cooks in four kitchens do exactly the same thing. That is, pull two cloves from a bulb of garlic, peel them, fry them whole in plenty of olive oil until sof...
Vital signs 12 Jun 2013 | 09:14 pm
It was the wrong way round. I’d begin with a recipe. Then clinging to my list and intent, go to the shops. Other things might be bought – something irresistible and obviously essential – but the focus...
